Pan Popped Parmesan Popcorn and the Reason that Dogs Don't Blush
Greetings all. Weeks have passed and snow has melted. Clouds have hung around. Sometimes big heavy ones that sit right on camp and make it hard to see. Sometimes high flat ones, obscuring the sun. All sorts of clouds. With these clouds often comes WXCL days and on those days we spend a lot of time napping, playing Scrabble with the cook. Sometimes we kick on the generator and all gather in and watch a movie. Karen tries to have extra delicious snacks to comfort us through the dull days like that. One particular movie session, Karen made us Popcorn made on the stove and peppered with parmesan cheese. It was sumptuous.
Along with these weather days we get to enjoy the particularly pungent odeur of wet dog. I hug them to put on their harnesses, many of them like to jump up and greet you with a hug, others just double high-five your chest. Each dog has its own, personal greeting for me. They also vary throughout the day. Some of my dogs are morning people. Some are afternooners. We have a couple young girl dogs, just about a year old. Little (maybe 40-45 lbs) white, short hair girls with tails that curl up over their backs. If they get put together on a team it is a wreck b/c they jump all over each other and tangle the line. Some of my dogs will unabashedly go bell-up in front of other dogs. Some dogs won't back down. Usually the young males... funnily enough.
It is always interesting in the mornings when the dogs haven't seen you since the night before, and you certainly have so many new smells on the seat of your pants. And so the dogs greet you, just like they greet each other. And nothing wakes you up at 6 in the morning quite like that. And the dogs seem so unabashed about the whole ordeal and that is when I started thinking about that very obvious difference between humans and animals...we are the only ones that blush. Chew on that.
Poop and H2O
Showers, Sunsets, and the Balearic Islands
I love you all.
Mountaintops and fog-play
Warning to those who love me and worry for my safety: This entry details exploits which may cause you slight discomfort.
Also: please excuse the many typos. I have written this on an Apple and don't quite get the dang machine yet. I will edit this when I get to a REAL computer.
The reason for the lack of post last week was because I was out having adventures to post about. Namely, I was climbing A&B Mountain with a number of my co-workers. It started off manageable enough. Steep but well marked. Sometimes gravel, sometimes soft dirt, and other stretches were large smooth rock surfaces, smoothed better than the nicest sidewalk by thousands of years of glacier pressure. Glaciers...the original highway construction teams. 30 minutes up we reached a rock off of which we could look down, over the trees, at the town of Skagway, several hundred feet below. THe ridge across the other side of town, packed with an assortment of trees, led up and over to our glacier home. Up there where the clouds played like halos around the peaks. Another hour up the trail we crossed a stream and entered what seemed like a wonder playland for woodland wanderers. Moss like icing on the cake. Roots of the deep brown and red standing trees gave body to the texture. Below was marsh. We could hear it, deep under our feet gasping everywhere we stepped and inhaling deeply as we moved on. Part way though the bog I stopped and listened as two trees played their story on each others branches. For the rest of the hike I tried to imagine which instrument in an orchestra best fit the different aspects of the mountains. The rocks were a deep resonating drum. THe wind was the flutes. The trees whisped like so many woodwinds. And all the while the mountain was the sound in between. THe echo of the silencing instruments and the body of the song.
Just through the marsh the trail decided it had had enough with the wandering and the switchbacks. It was time to go straight up. Through shrubs. Scamper up those same sidewalk rocks. THis time wishing they had even one crack to put your hand into. TUrns out the water melting off the top of the mountains picked the best ways down and se seemed to be of the impression that was also the best way up. Stomping now through bouts of snow. Winding through thickets. Sometimes all I could think of was getting one foot one step further up the trickle of waterfall. Planting the feet. Ascertaining that the ground would hold. Step up. Plotting the next step as I took the first. The going got slow and the slow got going. Jumping the spots that were deep and rushing with water. But don't jump too high b/c the optic nerve hangers (branches) were everywhere.
Finally the scrubs ended and the waterfalls we were on layers of moss on top of rocks. Alaska ll around us. Above. Below. Crumbled into the cuffs of my Carhartts. Woven into my hair and sticking to my palms and jacket. But there we were. Watching the patterns of the clouds play across the fjord below. The way the water from the rivers pushed to make its mark out into the ocean water. Again, clouds snaking across the mountain tops. Tickling the tree tops in whisps. Twirling and skipping. Moving pockets of sunlight everchanging. Epic.
Then, after 5 minutes in the wind, we decided to work our way back down. Now, when I say 'work' our way back down...well, that had different meanings for all of us. For Joel, a musher from Minnesota it meant schpeil down the mountain-side at a pace that frightened me to even think about. We got back down to the bramble and I had lost sight of the group ahead and the trail as well. I heard a voice coming from the tangle. My friend Karl, asking if I would like someone to maneuver down with. I most certainly did. Of course, we immediately lost the trail and found ourselves climbing and crawling and scrambling through impossibly thick bushes. I was using my hands and arms like I never had before when hiking. At one point I looked to my left and there was a 20 foot ledge leading down to a smooth patch of snow running down the mountain side. Looked easier than climbing through the bushes until I realized it was covering a stream. However, the bushes kept maneuvering me closer to the ledge and then the ground under my feet decided to relocate to the bottom of the ledge and I was left hanging from the trees I had grabbed. Shaking hands with Alaska in a very intimate way. About 20 minutes later we started marco/poloing with some other kids from the group and finally found Travis a Katie sitting on the bit of trail. Kate was eating chips and Travis was smoking a cigar. We made our way back down the sidewalk rocks by sliding and grabbing at tree limbs to slow us down. Until we finally made it back into the boggy playland where the others had waited. Then. Then we ran my friends. We bolted from one spot to the next. Up the mossy rises, down the rock faces. Up the gravel trails and back down. Once the pace was well set in our legs we began to play. Leaping off of stumps. Hopping on the rocks. Flying. At some point the joy of it all welled up inside me so much that I could not help but hoot out loud and started laughing. Laughing until I could not tell if my sides hurt from laughing or from running. And then there we were. Passing the old shack that had leaned against the trees next to it b/c it was tired of standing by itself. And we could see the road. And the truck. And five miles later we returned to our trailers. Victorious and ravishingly hungry. So we went to the Pizza shop in town. That morning we had planned a fire by the river that night but instead we found ourselves asleep almost before we could zip our sleeping bags all the way up.
An epic adventure for sure.
Since then I have been on the glacier for 7 or 8 days. I have learned that trying to know what the weather will be like in 5 minutes is really a waste of effort. You can try, and you can fret. Or you can learn to enjoy the mystery and just be prepared for anything. I am retraining myself from the first to the second although my endeavour to learn the clouds goes on. We have started getting snow again which means clouds and fog as well. Meaning sometimes days are WXCLD, sometimes sessions are WXCLD, sometimes you are just so sure it will be WXCLD and then there the helicopters are, unloading bundles of awestruck, camera toting visitors. Some of them, we never see their faces. THey seem to be growing out of the back of digital cam-corders or massive cameras. So desperate to capture the moment that they miss the whole thing in the first place. Others, you can see, are just there to have the time of their lives. They don't need much of a prompt to start laughing I have learned and I join them sometimes. THose are my favorites. The ones who understand to just laugh and have fun. IT feels so right because, being up here, I can't help but wonder if this whole thing is just one big cosmic comic. I love it. I love it. I love it.
Snow Days
Oh dear and patient reader. I would like to open this entry with the sad forewarning that I have not yet figured out how to hook my camera into the computers up here. But know that there are pictures waiting and I should have them up here in a week or two.
This has been a crazy week on and off the glacier. We had two WXCL (weather cancellation) days due to snow up on the glacier. On the first day we got at least a foot of snow in less than 24 hours. Because of the low clouds and bad visibility the helicopters could not make the trip so we just hung out around camp. A few of the boys started going stir crazy so we decided to approach our second snow day differently. We went outside in the morning and played snow volleyball for a while then went out on snow shoes for a bit. We spent the rest of the day digging out a big fort then piled a bunch of snow and started working on an underground room which was orchestrated by our Colorado girl, Cori. There were four of us working on it diligently and were planning on sleeping in it but then we were notified that the weather was good enough for a crew flight to be sent down and so a group of us had to leave half way into building an igloo over the front room. Hopefully the weather will not blow it over before we can get back to our creation! Now a group of us have been weathered down into town for 3 days.
On the helicopter ride down the winds were so strong that we were basically flying sideways all the way down the valley. Once we got out over the water the winds were too strong for the pilot to drop altitude so we got to spin around in circles to drop down which gave us an awesome view of everything. Now we are safely in town and planning on going to dinner then to a show about the history of the town (which we get into for free for being ‘locals’). Since we have been in town for so long we have been adventuring all over this place both through the town (aka delightful little diners, gear shops to ogle, goofy tourist shops, ridiculously priced fur coat stores and diamond shops) and all around the trails reaching out in all directions.
My first order of business was to acquire a pair of rental x-country skis to facilitate quick travel across the glacier. Necessary for my job of course. . . I was excited to be returning to the glacier by the next day but we were informed that we would not be flying up until later so Travis from Bed Oregon and I decided to hitch-hike out to Dyea, an old abandoned mining town about 8 miles down the fjord. The funny thing is that for as eerie as an abandoned mining town sounds, there is actually nothing there at all because these Northerners, being the practical people that they are, took their houses with them. So we walked along a trail through the woods along the highway and then, along the hill that rose we were picked up by a bussely buoyant looking old lady driving a large yellow tour van Chillkoot Trail Guides. Her name was Ruth and she had been here year round for 5 years and was a wealth of information about every thing we passed. She even stopped for us to identify some edible plants I had been curious about. She drove us all the way out to a trail head and dropped us off before turning her van around in one of the many, convenient ‘large vehicle turn around loops’ available.
There we stood on a bank 20 feet over the Taiya River, winding through a wide low rocky damp bed of rocks. The rain misted down on us. The only really significant drops were the ones that came from the branches of the trees as we brushed through them. We came upon several other groups of people like ourselves, just out wandering the trails in the rain. Some camping, some carrying backpacks and layers of weather gear. We walked across an old framed bridge and watched the water flow underneath us before we dropped to the pebble beaches lining the river. We found old shards of colored glass and wondered where they came from. We came across an old red brick and wondered what house upstream was missing such an integral piece. But we spent most of the time wondering up at the trees and mountains and the low coiling, wisping fogs which snaked through the treetops along the low ridges. In the distance we could see a tall, round snow covered mountain. The snow billowing off the top in a wind which undoubtedly rocked the world above tree-line. After a few hours of wandering we realized we were decidedly hungry and made our way back to the road. We were eventually picked up by Tyler and Clifford the Big White Dog. A Montana farm boy with a big green truck who also knew a good deal about the area. Such as that this fjord is the second deepest in the world, the deepest in America. Also that, while most tourists are led to believe that this is a canal, it was actually named after a man whose last name was Canal. A locals’ prank on the herds of wealthy old people who trample their streets for at least 8 hours a day before retreating back onto their lit boats and dining halls and deck top pools and Jacuzzis.
We rolled back into town and made it into a tasty little Thai shop with delicious tea and spicy food. I am proud to say that I now volunteer to eat lettuce. Just like real adults. But nothing can change the fact that peppermint fudge will always be more appealing to me. At the end of the day we came back to the campers and settled down on the floor with the mushers and watched a goofy movie, ‘More Dogs than Bones’, before climbing into my sleeping bag and reading Calvin and Hobbes until I fell asleep.The next day (today) we all got up and went for a cheap warm breakfast. We then wandered along an old gravel road beside the river and railroad and looked up at the hill-sides, collapsed into rock slides. Rocks bigger than my car settled 200 feet below where they probably once fit. Sometimes we would see and hear small cascades of rocks which made us hurry on down the road.
We began to run into trails sneaking off from the main road and found ourselves climbing over mossy rocks and fern padded dirt. We came out into a clearing at the bottom of a deep, gorge-like valley and looked up hundreds upon hundreds of feet to the top of a narrow, raging waterfall. We traversed the rocks and explored a cave before wandering back down the hill into the graveyard where the heroes and legends of the town were buried and where funnily colored tour busses bring visitors for a few minutes of silent reverie of a foreign history.
Walking back we saw a train coming along the rail and I borrowed some change and now we each have a flattened coin to commemorate our voyage. One warm package of ramen later I am feeling dry enough to venture forth to town before the market closes. Upon our first tour of the town we found a small funny shop called Port of Call populated mostly by people from very strange sounding countries but which carries the funniest, most random foods. I happened to spot some nutella and of course had to procure some. Also, somewhat jostled into it on a matter of dignity I purchased a jar of ‘Srikaya’ whose label sports a coconut, some kind of sprout and eggs. The matter inside the glass resembles something you would expect to encounter coming from a sick baby. But we are going to try it and that requires a loaf of bread. So I would like to leave you with some little poems and reflections I jotted while exploring.
Reid Waterfalls
Breathe deep the Alaska dream
Let the air filter through you
Clean you
Cascading towering waterfalls
Caves & nooks
Water. Still. Though settled on a precipice. Foaming.
Eddies. Swirling foaming bubbles
A gargledsong
Happy currents leap
Tiny streams, out along-side
Findtheir own way
Kamikaze Droplets launch.
Gold Rush Cemetery
Cemetery sleep
Along the broiling river
Nestled in the hill side
Intermingled with tree roots
Interlocking in a slow hug
Earth take me back
Wind carry my ashes
Across the wide land.
That I may nestle with all that I love.
Rain and snow, still fall on my face.
First Day Off

